Learning Irish on Two Wheels: Cycling, Culture and the Gaeltacht
Rediscovering the Irish Language
I first learned Irish in secondary school in Belfast in the 1980s, and I still remember a few words, sentences and phrases from those days. As an adult, I often said to myself that I would start learning it again. In the past year or so, I’ve jumped in, albeit while living in Arizona. I’ve always enjoyed travelling around Ireland, learning local history, camping, cycling and listening to traditional music, and it felt like the right time to learn our native language.
I started by writing down what I remembered from school, watching YouTube videos and following Facebook pages to get familiar with the basic words. Social media has helped a lot. Influencers, musicians and online classes have been great at getting me, and so many other beginners, familiar with the language. It can’t be denied that there is a resurgence across all ages, and thankfully, it seems that younger generations are leading the way.
Finding Opportunities to Practise Irish
Over the past few years, when visiting my Mum in Crumlin, County Antrim, each summer and Christmas, I realised that I was walking past Ionad Teaghlaigh Ghleann Darach pretty much every day. I called in to learn more, joined a couple of beginner conversation groups and picked up a few more words.
I’ve also registered for weekly online classes with Let’s Learn Irish, which is a great resource, as using the language regularly is what’s most helpful. It feels great to be around fluent speakers who enjoy helping beginners.
I’ve also done a few summer bike trips to the west coast over the past few years – Donegal, the Burren, Connemara and the Dingle Peninsula. Along with some neighbourhoods in Belfast and Dublin, the west coast is where you’re most likely to hear the language in everyday use.
A couple of moments really stand out. On a bike trip through County Galway, I overheard a Garda and a guy in a shop speaking Irish, and I understood one or two words. Then, on another cycling trip around Donegal, I was in a shop in Gweedore, and the woman behind the counter was speaking Irish to another customer. I plucked up the courage to ask for a sandwich, a bottle of water and directions to the beach. She understood and responded kindly.
Whether in an online class or attempting to speak to a stranger, those who are fluent are always very welcoming to total beginners.
Exploring Ireland’s Islands and West Coast by Bike
I’ve also been out to a few of the islands – Achill, Cape Clear, Clare Island and Dursey (connected to the mainland by Ireland’s only cable car). Over the next few years, I hope to visit the Aran Islands, as well as Inishbofin, Gola and Tory Islands. Maybe I’ll stay for a week in the Gaeltacht while I’m up there.
What I’m most enjoying about learning my native language is combining it with cycling. On my trips along the west coast, I’ve ridden some iconic routes, visiting old churches, ghost towns and stone bridges along the way – the Gap of Dunloe to the Black Valley in Kerry; Ballymastocker Bay and Fanad Lighthouse in Donegal; Priest’s Leap, Gortnabinny and Healy Pass in the Caha Mountains between Cork and Kerry; and the Ring of Beara, stopping at Helen’s Bar in Kilmacalogue for salmon and crab sandwiches. You have to see Helen’s on a sunny day to believe it!
Learning Irish at the Fleadh Cheoil in Belfast
Fast-forward to August 2026, and Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann was in Belfast for the first time. I was really looking forward to the music, food and craic. I’d been to the Fleadh in Clonmel and Ballina in the 1990s, and I wasn’t going to miss it this year in my hometown!
I saw a post on the Fleadh Facebook page saying that there would be Irish language classes at the MAC Theatre in the Cathedral Quarter. I went to a few classes that week, and they were the highlight of the Fleadh for me. We counted to 100, learned basic phrases like good morning and where is the restaurant?, and sang Báidín Fheilimí! The teachers and volunteers at the MAC couldn’t have been more welcoming.
Overall, the Fleadh in Belfast was amazing to experience – from the huge crowds, to the language classes, to Irish dancers on Royal Avenue, to kids playing harps and tin whistles on High Street, to bodhrán and uilleann pipe sessions at the Garrick, Maddens and Kelly’s Cellars. I’m already planning to be there in 2027.
Discovering the Irish Language in Place Names
Combining the Irish language, music, local history and these cycling adventures is fascinating. It’s amazing to understand that the place names we use every day trace back to an Irish origin. The language is literally all around us:
Limavady – the dog’s leap
Tobermore – the big well
Derry – oak forest
Crumlin – crooked glen
Antrim – lone ridge
Glengarriff – the rough glen
Gortnamona – the turf field
The list goes on. As I heard someone say at the Fleadh in Belfast: “The Irish language isn’t going through a revival; the Irish language has been revived.” I’m proud to be part of it.
My Irish-Language Journey Continues
I have a long way to go, ach tá mé ag foghlaim Gaeilge. Is breá liom a bheith ag rothaíocht ar an gcosán thar an gcnoc, go dtí an abhainn agus an tseanchill. Is maith liom dul ag campáil, is maith liom ceol sa teach tábhairne, agus iasc le sceallóga.
Regular practice, friendly conversation and opportunities to connect with other learners can make all the difference. Bígí linn, a chairde – join us!
Bígí páirteach!
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