Na hOileáin Árann: A History of the Aran Islands
Believed to have been first inhabited 5,000 years ago, the Aran Islands off the coast of County Galway offer a rich and distinct history of the Irish experience, as well as one of the most unique places to visit in Ireland. The three islands, Inis Mór (Inishmore), Inis Meáin (Inishmaan), and Inis Oírr (Inisheer) are collectively home to over 1300 inhabitants descended from generations of people who have forged an inimitable identity while surviving difficult conditions.
This article will provide some historical context of the islands as a whole, and then include specific information for each of the three communities.
The Aran Islands’ Rich Past
Whether the surface ever had naturally occurring topsoil or if it was lost after the first inhabitants cut down all the trees, early settlers have had to contend with the fact that there was no dirt on the islands—only limestone rocks. In order to grow crops and pastureland, islanders carefully cultivated a mixture of sand, seaweed and eventually animal dung to create a medium with which to grow their sustenance.
Thirty-eight national monuments can be found across the three islands, paying tribute to the long and varied past of those who lived there. Some trace back to before Christ, when the sea level was lower and it was believed that the islands were connected to the mainland of Ireland by land. Another interesting and distinctive archaeological entity are the Clocháns, or small, stone beehive huts that predate Christianity in Ireland and in which inhabitants used to live. The Clochán is an emblematic structure of Celtic civilization going back to at least the 7th century.
The Aran Islands were brought to international attention when American filmmaker Robert Flaherty—considered the father of the documentary and ethnographic film—released Man of Aran in 1934. The film follows a handful of islanders carrying out their “primitive” existence and daily routines such as fishing, planting potatoes and mending their boats. Although the film was later criticized for not showing an accurate portrayal of life on the island (there are long scenes devoted to shark hunting, even though the islanders stopped that practice fifty years previously), it was still revered for its cinematography and editing at the time.
On September 13th, 2024 a new €3 million project was introduced for Inis Mór to create the Árainn – Place of Stone Visitor Centre in Cill Rónain, the largest town on the island. The new visitor center will replace the previous tourist facility, with the intent to provide “a richer, deeper understanding of the islands’ history, traditions and natural environments,” as well as be a space that both locals and tourists can enjoy.
The Unique Identity of the Aran Islands
Being largely isolated from the mainland of Ireland—and accordingly needing to be self-sufficient—the islanders are said to have fostered a particularly distinctive type of Irish identity. For example, it is no surprise that fishing was essential to their survival. To navigate the wild and unpredictable Atlantic conditions they developed the currach. The Aran currach was made by stretching a canvas over the thin skeletal frame of a boat and then covering it in tar. Although these durable vessels are no longer used for fishing, there are frequent currach races on the islands.
With few other materials, clothing on the islands was made from sheep wool or cattle hide. This led to the celebrated Aran sweater, now prized all over the world. Women on the islands were known to be skilled knitters, making a durable piece of clothing with unique patterns that gained popularity after being promoted by 20th century Dublin author Pádraig Ó Síocháin. Pampooties, moccasins made out of hide, were another unique accessory worn on the islands.
Due to its distinctive geology and coastal conditions, the Aran islands support a unique presentation of flora and fauna, where Mediterranean, alpine and artic plants can be found next to each other. For example, orchids and dwarf shrubs coinhabit the same space, as well as ragwort, sea-holly, meadowsweet and cat’s ear lily. In addition to an array of seabirds, from oystercatchers to northern gannets, the islands also boast an eclectic selection of butterflies that draw in enthusiasts from all over the world.
Finally, another part of the Aran Islands’ identity comes from being a Gaeltacht. Although Oliver Cromwell did arrive on the islands during his conquest of Ireland in the mid-17th century and set up a defensive fort there, he eventually left with his troops. The population of the islands increased afterwards, as some people from the mainland moved to the Aran Islands to escape the reach of the English. Because inhabitants were ultimately less harried by the colonizers, the Irish language was able to persist. Today, Irish remains the first language of the islands.
Inis Mór (Inishmore)
About the Island
Being the largest and most populated of the three Aran Islands, it is not surprising that its name means “big island.” Nonetheless, until the early to mid-19th century the island was known as Árainn or Árainn Mhór, which either translates as “kidney-shaped” or “ridge.” Its name was eventually changed, however, to avoid confusion with Arranmore, an island in Donegal Gaeltacht. Inis Mór is approximately 7.5 miles (12 km) long and 1.8 miles (3 km) wide, with about 800 inhabitants.
Following the Cromwellian Conquest of Ireland (1649-1653), a prison camp was set up on Inis Mór for Catholic priests who continued to practice their religion after it was banned by English decree. The last priest was released in 1662. Today, nearly 1600 people visit Inis Mór on an average summer day.
Sights and Events
Undoubtedly, one of the biggest attractions to Inis Mór is Dún Aonghasa (Dun Aengus). Although scholars don’t know exactly when the prehistoric stone fort was built, it is believed that the first construction on it goes back to 1100 BC. It consists of three walls and a stone slab in the middle, and is proffered to be named after the Irish mythological god Aonghus mac Úmhór. There are also several other prehistoric forts on Inis Mór, as well as a monolithic tomb.
Another must-see historical site on Inis Mór is Tempull Breccain, translated as the Church of Brecan, but more commonly called the Seven Churches of Aran. Although there is only the ruins of two churches and other domestic buildings, the site, with constructions dating between the 8th and 13th centuries, was one of the biggest monastic centers in the west of Ireland and drew pilgrims from all over the mainland.
A unique attraction on Inis Mór is the worm hole, known in Irish as Poll na bPéist (hole of worms/sea monsters). Poll na bPéist is a naturally occurring square pool in the rock that is supplied by underground channels. It’s a popular swimming and diving location. In fact, for several years the annual Red Bull cliff-diving world championships were held on Inishmore, with contestants jumping into the wormhole.
Finally, since 2007, Inis Mór has been home to Ted Fest, a gathering celebrating the popular Irish television show Father Ted. Participants dress up as their favorite characters and hold various events related to the program.
Cultural References
One of Ireland’s most important 20th century writers, Liam Ó Flaithearta (O’Flaherty in English) was born in Gort na gCapall, Inis Mór, in 1896. Ó Flaithearta was a major figure in the Irish Renaissance, his most famous book being The Informer (1923).
Máirtín Ó Díreáin, a paramount poet in the Irish language, was also from the island. Having later moved to Galway and Dublin, much of his work explored the tensions between the rural and urban, as well as the traditional and modern.
Martin McDonagh, playwright and filmmaker—most recently of The Banshees of Inisherin (2022) fame—wrote an Aran Islands trilogy of plays, one set on each isle. The second play, The Lieutenant of Inishmore, was published in 2001.
How to Get to Inis Mór
Aran Island Ferries sails to Inis Mór from two locations: Galway City and Rossaveel in Connemara. The trip is approximately 90 minutes from Galway City and 40 minutes from Rossaveel. You can also take an Aer Aran Islands flight from Connemara Regional Airport located at Inverin. The plane carries nine passengers and the flight takes about 10 minutes. Although Aer Aran Islands operate year-round, the flights are still weather-dependent.
Inis Meáin (Inishmaan)
About the Island
Although the second largest island in size, Inis Meáin is the least populated of the three Aran Islands, with 184 people recorded in the 2022 census. With less visits from tourists, Inis Meáin may be the most “unadulterated” of the three Aran Islands.
What is, perhaps, one of the most unique traditions in Ireland happens on the island of Inis Meáin. Every year locals gather to play a game of Cead on St. Patrick’s Day. It is the only day it is played, and practice is forbidden. In Cead, a small wooden cylinder (the cead) is placed on a flat stone. Players must use a larger stick to tap the cead into the air, and while in the air strike it over a rope placed thirty meters away. At the end of the day everyone goes to the pub to celebrate the “World Cup” winners of the sport.
Sights and Events
On August 15th of every year the locals of Inis Meáin visit Leaba Chinnderig (Saint Kenderrig’s grave). Saint Kenderrig was a seventh century princess from the province of Leinster in Ireland, although not much else is known about her. Saint Kenderrig’s well is located nearby.
One of the biggest attractions for visitors on Inis Meáin is Dún Crocbhur (Conor’s Fort). This stone ringfort is smaller than Dún Aonghasa but has thicker walls. Located in the very center of the island, at its highest point of Inis Meáin, it is believed to be constructed sometime in the first millennium AD. While touring, one can also enjoy Dún Fearbhaí, another stone ringfort, on the eastern part of the island.
The oldest national monument on Inis Meáin is the Carrownlisheen Wedge Tomb found on the eastern lowlands on the island. Dating to somewhere between 4,000 and 2,500 BC, the grave is one of many sites across the Irish landscape also named Leaba Dhiarmada agus Gráinne (the bed of Diarmaid and Gráinne), after one of the most famous stories from the Fenian Cycle of Irish mythology.
Cultural References
The writer most associated with Inis Meáin is likely John Millington Synge. He stayed on the island from 1898 to 1902, listening to islanders tell their stories. It is said Inis Meáin is where he got the inspiration for his most important works, including Playboys of the Western World (1907) and Riders to the Sea (1903). The cottage he stayed in was made into a small museum called Teach Synge (The House of Synge). There is also a group of rocks called Cathaoir Synge (Synge’s Chair), which was said to be his favorite spot on the island.
Additionally, The Cripple of Inishmaan (1996), Martin McDonagh’s first play of the Aran Islands trilogy, was set on the island. The Cripple of Inishmaan is set during Flaherty’s filming of Man of Aran.
How to Get to Inis Meáin
Like with all three Aran Islands, Inis Meáin can be accessed via flight from the Connemara Regional Airport. Visitors may also get to the island with a ferry leaving from either Rossaveel, County Galway or Doolin, County Clare. There is a bus shuttle from Galway City to Rossaveel.
Inis Oírr (Inisheer)
About the Island
The smallest Aran Island by land size, Inis Oírr is approximately 1.8 miles (3km) by 1.8 miles (3km), and is located closest to the mainland. Its 343 inhabitants (per the 2022 census) live in one of five settlements, with Baile an Lurgáin being the largest village.
Saint Caomhán (sometimes anglicized as Cavan) is the patron saint of Inis Oírr. Although not much is known about this 9th century figure, several ruins on the island are associated with him. The feast day of the saint was on November 3rd until the 19th century, after which it was moved to June 14th.
Whether or not they have visited Inis Oírr, many Irish people are familiar with images of its coastline. The remains of MV Plassy, a cargo vessel shipwrecked on the shore of Inis Oírr in 1960, appear in the opening credits of Father Ted, the incredibly popular Irish television show from the 90s.
Sights and Events
In addition to the wreck of MV Plassy, Inis Oírr offers several other notable attractions. Located on the northern edge of the island is Cnoc Raithní (Hill of Bracken), an ancient burial site that traces back to 2,000 to 1,500 BC. The remains were discovered in 1885 when a storm removed the sands that had previously concealed it. Archeologists uncovered a bronze awl (pin), as well as an urn containing human remains. Cnoc Raithní is the earliest evidence of settlement on Inis Oírr.
Teampall Chaomháin, or St. Cavan’s Church, dates back to the 10th century, and despite the entrance being below ground level, is kept remarkably intact. The grave of Saint Caomhán is located next to the building, near its northeast corner. There was once a pilgrimage to the saint’s tomb on his feast day, particularly by the sick who hoped to be cured there. Those interested in ancient Christian sites can also enjoy St. Gobnait’s Church, built in the 11th or 12th centuries. St. Gobnait was a 6th century saint particularly associated with certain Gaeltacht areas, including Inis Oírr.
O’Brien’s Castle, built on the highest part of the island, is another attraction that draws visitors. The tower-like structure was believed to have been constructed around 1400 AD by a branch of the O’Brien family, who received twelve tons of wine each year by the Tribes of Galway (ruling merchant families in Galway) to protect the bay from “pirates and coast plunderers.” In 1582 the castle was captured by the O’Flahertys of Connemara, and then in the 17th century by Oliver Cromwell’s soldiers.
Cultural References
In 1987 composer Thomas Walsh recorded the slow air song “Inisheer” to honor the island. (A slow air is a type of traditional Irish composition without a strict meter.) The song became part of the cannon of Irish trad music.
The third play in Martin McDonagh’s Aran Islands trilogy was titled The Banshees of Inisheer, but it was never published. It did, nonetheless, became the basis of the popular 2022 film The Banshees of Inisherin. However, because the film is set on a fictional island, it bears no direct associated with Inis Oírr.
How to Get to Inis Oírr
In addition to an AerArann flight from the Connemara Regional Airport in Inverin, you can take a ferry from either Rossaveel, County Galway or Doolin, County Clare. There is also a shuttle bus available from Galway City to Rossaveel.
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